River McDonald, Author at Edinburgh Dog Behaviour

The Magic U-turn

If you are sharing your life with a dog who exhibits overreactive behaviour towards certain things, you will know that it is super hard to avoid these encounters on your daily walks.

Every time you come across the trigger – whether it’s another dog, a person, or even a vehicle – you feel the anxiety rise inside you and the dread of your dog’s imminent overreaction. But you also know that you need to get through the encounter – after all, your dog won’t ever learn how to behave properly otherwise, right?

Wrong!

Many years ago, this small piece of advice completely blew my mind and changed my world as the owner of a dog-reactive dog. Maybe it will do the same for you.

Instead of gritting your teeth and walking headfirst into yet another overreactive disaster with your dog, you can actually simply turn around and walk the other way before your dog explodes!

Using u-turns can drastically reduce the stress for you and your dog when walking your overreactive dog and they can even help your dog create positive associations with their trigger, too!

Let me explain.

When you first teach your dog the u-turn skill, you reward them every time they turn with you. Soon enough, just the word signalling the imminent turn will bring up feel-good vibes in your dog!

When you then say that word upon spotting your dog’s trigger, your dog will still receive these feel-good vibes associated with the word and can gradually associate the sight of their trigger with those good feelings, too.

If your dog is scared of their trigger (rather than over-excited), moving away from the trigger can further increase their feeling of safety and confidence as they are learning that they won’t be forced into the encounter.

Here is another nugget of gold to transform your walks: not every u-turn is the same and some are more effective than others! What?

Traditionally, you would probably turn away from your dog and have them follow you around in a semi-circle until you both face the other way. Much like this:

Start training this skill by luring your dog inwards with food initially, and without any actual triggers present, until your dog will easily and happily turn with you as soon as you say the word.

Then, you can start using this magic u-turn whenever you are about to find yourself in a situation that you feel is too challenging for your dog to handle at that moment in time.

Let me say it again for those in the back: you are allowed to opt out of challenging encounters if you want to! It won’t negatively affect your dog’s training progress and it may help to maintain your sanity at times.

Should I get another dog?

Whilst many behaviour problems (such as barking, separation anxiety and dog reactivity) are not solved simply by getting another dog, dogs are very social animals and there are certainly benefits to both canine and human family members of adding another set of paws to the household. It isn't a decision to take lightly though!

Most people think that having an additional dog will be just the same as their current number of dogs (what’s one more, right?), and it absolutely can run just as smoothly - if you have the right things in place. Here are some things to consider if you're thinking about getting another dog.

I’ll preface this blog by sharing that my husband and I currently share our lives with six dogs of different ages, sizes, and backgrounds, and the tips given are based on my personal experience and are things that make our large multi-dog household easier to manage.

Generally speaking, the more dogs you have in your household, the less you can let slide. With just one dog, you may not mind so much if your dog changes sides frequently when walking on lead, it may not be such a big deal if one dog gets a bit hyper in the house occasionally, it’s easy to grab one dog if they dash out the door…. But, add one or more dogs to the situation, and it soon becomes a lot less enjoyable.

If your dogs vary significantly in size or age, they may have different needs and preferences that need to be catered for to ensure their safety and comfort. For instance, if you have numerous young large dogs, but also a small senior dog (Like I do!), then it is important to make sure that your senior dog has a safe place to retreat to when the young ones get a bit too rowdy with each other. In addition, it will also fall to you to ensure that the young ones do not cause bother to your older dog.

My top tips for effortless multi-dog households are:

Crate training! Having the option to crate your dogs safely and comfortably, means it is so much easier to work with individual dogs on their own, feeding high-value chews without arguments, ensuring adequate rest, and so on.
Designated sides for lead walking! If you have two or more dogs, it is so much easier to walk them together when each dog knows on which side of you they are supposed to walk on. This prevents you from being tripped up and tangled and makes so much more pleasant for everyone.
Colour-coded leads! This tip is less relevant for those who have just two dogs, but with three or above, I find having colour-coded leads invaluable! This means you know immediately which lead is attached to which dog and especially in emergencies where you need to grab a specific dog as quickly as you can, this can be super helpful.
Individual training! This is probably the most valuable tip of all. For any dog to be able to reliably follow instructions and perform desired behaviours in a group, they ideally need to have learned and practised them individually first. It is very easy to let your training slide when you’re handling multiple dogs, and it is a slippery slope. Make sure you regularly train your dogs on a one-on-one basis – your dogs’ skills will be sharper, and their individual confidence will benefit, too.
Condition a strong recall cue! Of course, teaching recall is always a good thing to do, but when you are trying to keep tabs on numerous dogs, it becomes even more important to be able to call them all to you immediately as it’s much harder to “just grab them”.
Condition their names well! Most dogs know their names, but often we use their names so often in day-to-day life that the name loses its value as a cue. With larger multi-dog households, it can be very helpful to condition your dogs’ names as individual recall or attention cues. This allows you to recall or get the attention of an individual dog reliably when needed without summoning the whole group.

Booking for our May dog training classes is live!!

We are super excited to announce that our Puppy and Adolescent dog training classes will start again this Spring!!

Our dog training classes start on Wednesday, May 18^th and will run for 6 consecutive weeks. The classes are run and organised by our two fully accredited canine instructors (PACT-KSA ABTC-ATI), Elona and Minas.

Using force-free, positive reinforcement, reward-based training methods we will help you be your dog’s best friend, we will look into the subtle signs that dogs use to tell us how they feel about their environment and interactions in addition to training some of those well sought out behaviours that every dog parent wants!

In our puppy class, we will work through some basic obedience training such as sitting/lying down, engagement and focus work when on and off the lead! We will focus part of our classes on the massive topic of socialisation. Quite often, the term socialisation is only used to describe when our puppies meet new dogs and people, but that is just the tip of the iceberg. The only limit to socialisation is our imagination: walking on usual surfaces like stones, a hard floor, sand; hearing new sounds; seeing unusual items like crouches, a person wearing a hat/glasses. We will introduce your puppies to some common “unusual experiences” from a safe setting and we will coach you on how to read your dog and how to help them go through an exciting experience!

In our adolescent dog training classes, we will take things a step further to proof the behaviours your dogs might know already or to teach them new ones. We will work on recall and loose lead walking near other dogs and human distractions; we will play focus games in the exciting class environment to show your dog how much fun they can fun with you rather than the dog next to them! We will work on your dog’s settle behaviour and target mat training.

Our puppy classes are suited for puppies that are up to 6 months old at the start of the class while our teenage trouble class is suited for dogs from 6 months and older. We will tailor the class to the individual dog’s needs so this is the perfect class for young dogs learning new behaviours or for older dogs where you might like to take things to the next level!

The Best Harness For Training Your Dog

Training your dog to walk beautifully on the lead starts with getting the right equipment. Contrary to popular opinion, there is no one harness that will stop pulling and teach your dog to walk on a loose lead, but making sure your dog is comfortable and secure is an important place to start.

Using body harnesses for our dogs has grown in popularity over the years – they keep our dogs’ necks safe when pulling into the lead which is especially good for young puppies who haven’t yet learned how to walk nicely.

With popularity comes choice, and boy, do we have a lot of choice when it comes to buying a new harness for our dog! Different sizes, styles, materials, colours…

Whilst most manufacturers will have brand-specific features in their designs, we generally have two main walking harness styles: The Y-front and the straight-front (also known as a Norwegian harness).

As the names suggest, Y-front harnesses feature a Y-shaped design on the dog’s chest and straight-front designs feature a single strap running horizontally across the chest.

Y-front harnesses come in a lot of variations, but the predominant design remains the same. This style of harness is favoured by most dog trainers, behaviourists, vets, and physiotherapists since it allows free movement of the dog’s shoulder blades. Y-front harnesses typically have one or two fastening buckles on the dog’s back, although brands like Perfect Fit do offer additional buckles on the neck as well. This can be helpful for dogs that don’t like harnesses that go over their heads.

Most brands offer one or more Y-front options, for example, the Ruffwear Front Range Harness, the Hurtta Casual Y-Harness, the Red Dingo Classic Dog Harness, and many more.

Straight-front harnesses have a bit of a tarnished reputation due to the positioning of the chest strap, but they can be good alternatives for dogs who do not like the feeling of the additional strap between their front leg, or who don’t enjoy pushing their heads through the fairly small neck opening. Straight-front harness feature a much larger head opening than Y-fronts and usually only have one buckle on the dog’s back or side, so are very quick and fuss-free to put on and take off.

This harness style can be a great choice for dogs who are in the process of learning to feel comfortable when wearing a harness.

One of the most common straight-front harnesses we currently see is probably the Julius-K9 IDC Powerharness, but many other brands will offer a straight-front option as well. The Hurtta Casual harness or the Hunter Norwegian Racing harness are other examples.

However, if your dog is a bit of a flight-risk – perhaps a new rescue dog, or a dog who is fearful of certain triggers in their environment – a straight-front harness is not the most ideal choice since they are designed to allow a dog to quickly back out of the harness.

Instead, consider an escape-proof double-strap harness for flighty dogs. This style is typically a Y-front harness with an additional tummy strap that fastens behind the dog’s ribcage, thus preventing the possibility of reversing out of the harness when frightened. This style is also brilliant for deep-chested breeds such as Whippets. We love the Ruffwear Flagline harness, but there are quite a few options on the market now.

Whilst we usually consider harnesses the most comfortable equipment choice, some dogs can find them quite aversive and may avoid having to wear one. We can usually improve a dog’s feelings about wearing a harness by spending some time introducing it gradually with positive reinforcement, but we also recommend checking the harness fit and inspecting for signs of wear and tear every week or two, as ill-fitting or damaged harnesses can chafe, pinch, rub or even cause acute pain.

As your dog grows and develops, they may also change shape and need a different size and fit of harness. For older dogs, there are variations of harnesses that allow you to give extra support and lift your dog’s back end. Our friends at Canine Arthritis Management are a great source of information on equipment for the older dog.

If despite your best efforts your dog still really doesn’t enjoy wearing their harness, consider trying out different styles to see if your dog prefers a different fit, or opt for a collar or even a head collar instead. Every dog has a different preference and it’s okay to choose what your individual dog feels most comfortable in! Do bear in mind that if your dog is a puller, attaching the lead to a collar or headcollar could put severe strain on their neck and back though, so if opting for this, lots of loose lead training (and possibly some expert help!) will be essential!

So, there you have it! A good harness won’t stop your dog from pulling, or cause them to pull, but the right harness for your dog can help them feel happy and comfortable. Happy dogs learn faster and better, so spending the time to find the right equipment for your dog will set your loose lead walking journey up for success!

New Year’s Resolutions that benefit you AND your dog!

1. Go on a new adventure!

Humans are creatures of habit but dogs LOVE to explore. Why not make time for you and your dog to get out and about to some new walking locations? Some of our favourite Edinburgh dog walks are Blackford Hill, Lauriston Castle, Portobello beach and the Water of Leith. If you’re stuck with what’s within walking distance of you, try mixing up your routes, or explore paths you’ve not been down before. Research also shows that going to new places can help combat stress, boost happiness and increase resilience in humans too!

2. Teach your dog a brain game

Despite what people might say, you absolutely can teach a dog of any age new tricks. The challenge of learning new games with your dog will increase your bond and give them a mental work out. We love the shell game as all you need is three containers and some tasty treats and you’ll soon be impressing family and friends! There’s plenty of brain games on the internet though, and in fact, a whole book of ideas if you get stuck!

3. Yup, dogs need diets too

Or more correctly, dogs need us to be “on it” in making sure we’re feeding them the best we can manage, and in the right amounts! Breed, age, size and exercise levels all influence what kind of diet will best suit your furry friend. For many owners, cost is an important factor too. Luckily, the website www.allaboutdogfood.co.uk is on hand to allow you to compare all these factors and more to find the food that is right for your dog. You may also what to discuss options with your veterinarian.

4. Bin that ball chucker (or use it less!)

This one is more of a plea than a suggestion. Whilst it may seem like a great way to exercise your dog, ball chuckers are responsible for creating “adrenaline junkies”, and more and more vets and dog health professionals are recommending they are used sparingly, if at all, to prevent injuries and excessive joint wear and tear. If you don’t want to bin the ball chucker altogether, how about using it to launch treats as part of a challenging game of find it? Have your dog wait for a release cue while you chuck the treats, for the added bonus of teaching impulse control as well as working their brain, nose and body!

5. Be a better communicator

Our relationships are only as good as our ability to communicate, and this is even more important when you don’t share a common language. With terms like “dominance” and “alpha” still firmly in the public imagination, it’s more important than ever we look to science and keep up to date with new developments in our understanding of dogs. Learn more about dog communication through the dog decoder app or silent conversations website, or check out this brilliant Canine Body Language book to get a better insight into what your dog is trying to say.

6. Start a teeth cleaning routine

Believe me, this is largely for your benefit as an owner, since many insurance companies do not cover dental and almost all dogs will need at least one (expensive) procedure in a life time. All you need is 2 minutes, 3 times per week, and with patience and understanding you can work up to cleaning your dog’s teeth. Start with a small amount of enzymatic tooth paste on your finger and let your dog lick it off. Repeat each time, allowing your dog to become familiar and comfortable before starting to gradually touch the teeth and build up to handling the muzzle. As long as you don’t force yourself onto your dog, and allow them to move away when they wish, after a few months you should have a dog that enjoys this process and will start to tolerate a doggy tooth brush as well.

7. Check your equipment

Take 5 minutes to check your dog’s collar, lead, harness etc for wear and tear, and most of all for fit. If you’ve ever had shoes that rub or clothing that is too tight, then you will sympathise with the importance of making sure our dog’s equipment fits comfortably. We recommended harnesses rather than collars for walking dogs on lead, as restricting airflow can cause stress and if your dog is a strong puller they can easily damage the delicate apparatus inside the neck (more vet bills!). Perfect fit and ruffwear make excellent harness that are comfy and secure, and last a long time.

8. Rotate that toy box

If you’re anything like us, your dog’s toy box probably resembles an archaeological record of toy eras, with the most recently played with at the top and a long forgotten, overdue-for-a-wash kong at the bottom (or if you have a collie, severally layers of balls). Tip it all out on the floor! See what your dog chooses and mix things up a little. You can also put toys away from time to time (even the favourite ones, actually, especially the favourite ones!) and bring them out at a later date to keep things fresh and interesting!

9. Address that bad habit

We all have them, dogs included. Whether it is dribbly staring at you while you eat, jumping up when you get home, or running off when they see someone more exciting than you on a walk (or just anyone who isn’t you on a walk), I will be surprised if your dog doesn’t have any! Very few problems fix themselves, so why not get proactive and come up with a training plan? A brilliant pro tip is rather than telling your dog NOT to do something, train them to do something that isn’t compatible with the bad habit, using loads of fun and treats to reinforce the preferred behaviour. Targeting your hand or going to a mat are great examples, and with enough practice, slowly increase the levels of distraction, you can make sure this is your dog’s number one favourite thing to do!

10. Make sure your details are up to date

Last but most important, take 10 minutes this week to check your dog’s microchip details are up to date and that they are in fact registered on a database. Shockingly, a large proportion of dogs found straying each year are chipped but the chip implanter failed to register the details with the microchip company. All that a finder will know in such a case, is that your dog is chipped and where it was chipped. They will not be able to reunite your dog, and you may struggle to even prove the dog is yours if it ends up in the wrong hands. Scary no? Indentibase and Petlog are the two main chip database in the UK, you can call Identibase on 01904 487600 and Petlog on 01296 336579, or check your chip registration through their websites.

We hope these ideas have inspired you, we’d love to find out more about your doggies resolutions on our facebook - https://www.facebook.com/edinburghdogbehaviour/

Wishing you all heaps of love, wiggles, games and adventures in 2019!

If Your Dog Is Showing Aggression

Once you have identified what (or who!) is causing your dog to act aggressively, try to ensure that your dog is able to avoid it as much as possible. This will involve carefully managing your and your dog's environment for a while until you can get an appointment with a behaviourist.

Plan walks for times of day or areas where you can easily avoid your dog’s triggers – for example, stick to open spaces where you can see other dogs approach and will have plenty of time to move away so your dog does not have to react aggressively to keep another dog away.
If aggression is occurring in the home, ensure the dog can retreat away from the trigger of its aggression and always ensure family members are kept safe by teaching everyone how to avoid triggering the aggression, or by containing your dog in a separate room until you can get advice from a behaviourist.

Never, ever, punish a dog for behaviours such as growling – as your dog may simply learn not to growl and may then attack without warning. Use growls as a source of information as to what is making them uncomfortable and respect this until you can start behaviour work to teach the dog a more appropriate way of reacting.

Why Is Veterinary Referral Necessary?

A good behaviourist always works on veterinary referral. This is because health and behaviour are very closely linked.

Your vet will give your pet a thorough check up to make sure there are no health issues which might be underlying his or her behaviour.

In some cases it may be necessary for your behaviourist to work with your vet in the treatment of behavioural problems, for example if the problem diagnosed is likely to benefit from treatment with drugs.

If a behaviourist does not work on referral from your vet, beware! They may recommend modification plans which are ineffective or distressing for your pet should they have any underlying medical issues.

Author: River McDonald